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August 24th, 2012, 04:18 AM
#15
Senior Hostboard Member
Re: Lowering the crossover point.

Originally Posted by
cradeldorf
One of them I sent to GPA about 2 years ago to be remagged the other one has had nothing done to it. funny how they both have the same DCR.. I borrowed a meter from the college to measure them.... I wonder if it needed to be calibrated?. I didn't really know what I was doing other than sticking it on the 200 OHM setting and checking them. there were no directions with the meter they just have them piled up in a tub for the students.
Are you referring to the left side of the equalizer? where the sliders are almost centered? Because I could move them up higher but thats when the cabinets started flexing like something from a Ren and Stimpy cartoon. I'm thinking I want to build real Onken Jensen cabinets for them.
I'm not real sure the entire cabinets were flexing but the back panel was sure making a racket maybe if I did some heavy duty bracing on them they'd shut up. They are about 24" by 30" 1972 particle board that I swear looks more like 5/8 instead of 3/4
Remagging is usually done only after the speaker is completely ready otherwise. So the DCR remained the same.
About your meter accuracy, you can always measure a known value resistor, say 10 ohms, and check it.
About the equalizer setting, it is not the left side, it is the peak at around 600 that looked unusual. A 604X rarely suffers here. But however, all these are based only on an assumption that like most people you also like a set up which is tuned to a 'flat' response, b'coz there are no other tangible proof available here. I think it is high time you get these drivers measured up systematically, thru someone more acquainted with the process. Otherwise it will be almost impossible to get predictable results, as the variables are too many, and we even do not know where the 'square-one' is, to go back if needed.
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